It's not as bad as it could be.
Nobody is injured. Ligaments and bones are intact. But following murmurings mid-week of a couple of unwell guests in our chalet, Cheryl succumbed last night and had to leave the table in the middle of dinner. And by lunchtime today, I was forced to admit defeat and slink home to bed. As I type, I'm missing our final supper. With empty slopes on changeover day (for most people) and bluebird conditions, day six should have capped a fine first half of Odyssey 2013. I'm bitterly disappointed to have missed out, but very lucky: all being well, we'll be back in these mountains before the month is out.
Days four and five almost make up for the loss. The sun made a watery appearance on Thursday and bathed the slopes on Friday, reminding us just how spectacular the Espace Killy can be. With good visibility and light winds, Marianne and I pushed harder: faster on piste, braver off piste, seeking out new routes and fresh powder wherever we went. Run of the week is uncontested: Silenes, a breathtakingly steep, ungroomed black above Tignes Les Brevieres. Blessed with wonderful soft snow and acres of challenging, sinuous off piste on either side, it rivals the toughest terrain we've skied in Whistler.
I started the week determined to unlock the magic in these mountains. And I've partially succeeded. The snow record is among the best in the world, and we've seen nothing to dispute that. With better skills I've been able to appreciate slopes I found terrifying in 2009.
Doubtless a bout of nausea has clouded my appreciation, but overall I still find the Espace Killy frustrating. The Solaise, Laisinant and Le Fornet sections of Val d'Isere have some great terrain, but they're marred by a disjointed lift system and far too many flat or uphill linking pistes. The mountain restaurants are better than I remember, but even on a quiet week they're often overcrowded. And the on-mountain toilet facilities are completely inadequate and unremittingly disgusting.
Our tour operator YSE have continued as they started: friendly, hardworking staff, comfortable chalet, good food and free-flowing wine. It's made for a convivial atmosphere at mealtimes, and dinner in particular has been a real event.
Would I return? Jury's out. Perhaps I'll feel more positive about it when I'm back in my own bed with guts unchurned.
Onwards and upwards...
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